After the problems of the bikes, and Dalma’s portent that we were only just likely to see them, they were delivered to our hotel on time the morning of our departure. We’d probably have left a little earlier, but 9.30am saw us on the road, bags secured, and geared up.

Leaving the hotel.with the bikes.

We’d be riding 130km. On unfamiliar bikes. In an unfamiliar country. Dalma was, as usual, tense when we started off.  Plus as we’d forgotten her Cardo unit, we couldn’t talk as we ride. Still, there was something undeniably exciting and familiar. We’ve done this a few times now.

We turned the front tyres of our little 150cc Yamaha’s north. They’re fun little bikes. The kick stand is placed in front of the peg rather than behind, which is trickier to find eithouth having to look down. The speed limit outside of cities here is 70kph, but even then, you can feel the bikes starting to hit their limit. They’re supposed to do 115kph, but I think it’d take a while to get there, particularly with 20kg of luggage on the back.

Eventually we got to the 70kph bits. But even then, we kept getting held up by tractors and tuktuks. You’re not supposed to overtake on unbroken lines so we dutifully wait while everyone else overtakes on blind corners. That said, it doesn’t seem as chaotic as India.

We eventually turned off the main road and onto the b-road that would take us up the peninsula to Kalpitiya. This is a salt producing area and salt pans were on both sides of the road.

In the salt fields of Kalpitiya

After 40km, we turned off onto roads of astonishing smallness. We didn’t meet a car, but we’d have surely been pushed off the road if we had. Google Maps got us lost (again) but we eventually made it to our accommodation.

Kalpitiya is beautiful. It feels overexposed and bleached. Salty and sandy. We’re by the sea and out the front is a small dead tree held by wires. I’m not sure if it grew there and died or was planted there. But it lends a gaunt beauty to the place.

The gaunt tree

We’re here for two days before heading north again. Two days with nothing to do but read, write, and eat. Not a bad couple of days.